Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Bruges is an European foodie destination you might never have thought of

My most recent trip to the Belgian West Flemish city of Bruges during early spring this year was my fourth in almost as many years, owing to the fact that it is my Belgian husband's hometown.

It's a shame more people are not as familiar with the region's capital, compared with other European cities such as Amsterdam or even Bath in England. And that's because its surreal fairy tale charm has remained intact. I always tell my friends that going to Bruges makes me feel like I'm in Far Far Away, the kingdom in the Shrek universe, with its many canals and well-restored medieval architecture. And if you're the sort who goes out of your way to avoid bustling cities when you travel, the laidback vibe here is just what you're looking for.

Most, though, visit Bruges for a day trip as part of a longer European itinerary. Indeed, most of the main attractions can be covered in a day. The Basilica of the Holy Blood will definitely feature in the travel plans of religious devotees who come to admire its neo-Gothic design and catch a glimpse of the relic of the Holy Blood. The Belfry — if you're willing to brave its 366 steps — is home to 47 bells, which you can learn more about on your way to the top. Make it all the way, and you'll be rewarded with a breathtaking, panoramic view of Bruges and its surrounds. Also worth doing is the half-hour boat tour along the canals for a different perspective of the city. The boatman will also share some fun facts and trivia about the buildings you pass along the way.

There are a number of brasseries at the foot of the Belfry, and while these are great for an afternoon tipple as you watch the world go by, there are far better dining options to be found on the streets just off the main market square. It's no secret the Belgians are proud of their food, evidenced in the museums dedicated to three of the country's main culinary obsessions: Choco-story, a chocolate museum; Bruges Beer Museum; and even a Belgian fries museum, where, if you're so inclined, you can learn more about the history of the potato dish, and the numerous dressings and sauces that accompany Belgium's favourite snack.

So, yes, Belgians and Singaporeans share a national obsession with food. My husband likes to declare that Belgian food "has the finesse of French cuisine, with German-sized portions", which proved to be true with every meal I had there. And like any self-respecting greedy Singaporean, Bruges is a must-visit for me. And even though Bruges is home to a startling number of Michelin-starred restaurants, including the three-starred De Karmeliet, there are plenty of pocket-friendly options for those who aren't so willing to dig so deep for a meal. These are my top picks:

WHEN THE TEMPERATURE DIPS, TUCK INTO A HEARTY FLEMISH STEW

Bistro de Pompe is a homely, compact restaurant just off the main market square, where you'll find traditional Flemish cuisine at its finest. Sample a hearty rabbit stew cooked with prunes and mushrooms, or do what I did and order the vol-au-vent, a creamy chicken dish accompanied by a puff pastry filled with even more chicken. The waffles here are apparently very good as well, but I didn't get to try them as the German-sized portion of the main course proved to be too much for this Asian stomach.

Bierbrasserie Cambrinus is also a must-visit every time I'm in Bruges. Look past its generic European bar decor and enjoy its reliably good food, reasonable prices, unparalleled selection of more than 400 beers, as well as the prompt and friendly service. Packed to the brim at practically any time of the day, reservations are a must if you don't want to wait too long to enjoy mussels in white wine sauce, Flemish beef stew, and, I promise, the most satisfying croque-monsieur you'll ever have.

FILL YOUR LUGGAGE WITH LOTS OF CHOCOLATE

The streets surrounding the Bruges market square are choc-a-bloc with chocolate shops. The one place you have to make a stop at is The Chocolate Line, founded by one of Belgium's most well-respected chocolatiers, Dominique Persoone, the "shock-o-latier" as he's often known. He has filled chocolates with ingredients from bacon and fried onions to lemongrass and wasabi, and somehow manages to make each and every one taste delicious and well-balanced. A box or two of assorted chocolates will make the perfect gift for loved ones and colleagues back home.

GET YOUR BOOZE ON

The great thing about drinking in Bruges is that your hotel is probably just a short stumble home from most of the bars. Bars in Bruges run the gamut from the seriously dive-y to the downright swanky. Bar Des Amis is a favourite among locals for its casual, convivial atmosphere and cheap pintjes (half-pints) of Stella Artois.

But no one goes to Belgium to only drink Stella. Head to Le Trappiste, a bar set in a 13th-century cellar, complete with exposed vaulted brick arches, to enjoy its one-of-a-kind ambience and wide selection of Belgian and international beers on tap and in bottles. If you're lucky, you might be able to get your hands on a rare Westvleteren 12, an abbey beer that has been touted as the best beer in the world, although we suspect that its scarcity plays as much a part as its taste for its high demand. Apparently, sales are limited to one order every two months per person, which must be reserved beforehand, and can only be picked up at the abbey.

Cafe Vlissinghe, a bar tucked away in a small street of the St Anna Quarter, is Bruges' oldest tavern, and it's certainly worth hunting down. Established in 1515, it celebrated its 500th anniversary last year. Feel the weight of history wash over you as you enjoy a beer or home-style fish soup while admiring its old portraits hung on wooden panelled walls. It also has a beautiful shady garden at the back where you can play a game of lawn bowls during summer.

If you prefer cocktails over beer, then make a beeline for Groot Vlaenderen, a stylish cocktail bar decked out in black with a stunning chandelier as its centerpiece. The usual suspects such as Negroni and Old Fashioned are on the list, but the bar's speciality lies in gin and tonics, and it's a great opportunity for you to discover some European gin labels you might not have heard of.

As Belgium's weather is notoriously unpredictable, the best season to visit Bruges is now, during the summer, when the chances of being rained in are at their lowest. Hopefully, by this time next year, Bruges might be a happy discovery for more travellers tired of the usual European cities.


Source: Bruges is an European foodie destination you might never have thought of

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